Bar Choice ： Cocktails from a Tea Field of Dreams
One mark of a truly excellent and unique cocktail, whether classic or creative, is that you find yourself craving the flavor for days.Something about the character of the drink permeates the senses, like espionage of the palate. Suddenly, it's impossible not to be drawn back. This is exactly what Bar Choice offers.Bar Choice. Photo courtesy of Bar Choice.Bar Choice. Photo courtesy of Bar Choice.Exquisitely detailed from entry to exit, Bar Choice means stepping into a tranquil universe of rich shadow and wicker accents, muted and spacious while inviting and mysterious.Bar Choice interior. Photo courtesy of Bar Choice.Bar Choice interior. Photo courtesy of Bar Choice.Bar Choice interior. Photo courtesy of Bar Choice.The interior décor was designed and handpicked by owner and creator, Ring Zhao. No less compelling in her charm, she wears a silk kimono in colorful tones, and laughs over the multitude of menus available at her new venture, explaining her interest in chemistry as a child.Her journey took her through Hong Kong as an English Teacher, into business ownership in education, and finally back to chemistry with a passion for cocktail culture.After clocking off from her day duties, she worked nights to learn mixology, apprenticing at the famed COA, Hong Kong, before the sleeplessness of that dual life led her to give up her business and take a risk – going full-time with her vision of Bar Choice, Shenzhen, partnering with decorated mixologist Zhazha Lee.Birthday Cake Ramos Gin Fizz (RMB148): Gin, Egg White, Syrup, Double Cream, Soda Water, Sprinkles. Photo courtesy of Bar Choice.That was six years ago, and the Shenzhen flagship rose quickly in popularity, with such events as aiming for the Guinness World Record for making the largest ever Ramos Fizz.Ring invited over 100 guests to participate, assisting with the tiring shaking of the concoction, with the attempt currently under review by Guinness.Photo courtesy of Bar Choice.While the Ramos Fizz is the original Shenzhen bar's signature drink, as Ring says she loves the history behind it (it was a bartender's accidental creation) the new Shanghai location has added a very different focus: tea.Tea in cocktails is certainly not a new concept, and especially in China can seem shop-worn or recycled, but Bar Choice in Shanghai is not offering any old tea for its cocktails, it is offering the quintessence of Oolang, with the famed Phoenix Dan Cong Tea.Fruity Phoenix Dan Cong Tea. Photo courtesy of Bar Choice.Speaking with Ring becomes a thrilling lesson. Describing herself as "coming from a tea family," meaning they sold tea, her choice of leaves hails to the legendary pride of China Phoenix Dan Cong Tea is grown on one mountain, and overseen by one tea master, who has partnered with Ring to offer exclusive tours of their tea fields through Bar Choice.The master even offers rare tea ceremony events in the VIP back room, for those who keep their ear to the tea leaf.Tea Spirit Highball Tasting Flight (RMB198). Photo courtesy of Bar Choice.During the day, Bar Choice is a tea house, always roasting and drying a small cache near the entrance.At night, the shadows come alive with an array of options, from the serious and profiled tea cocktails – categorized as floral, fruity, honey, and woody – to the gaiety and playfulness in the seasonal menu of Ramos Fizz twists.Yet another menu offers locally sourced fruit and vegetable based cocktails that change each fortnight.There are tea tasting sets, tea spirit tasting flights, tea spirit highball series, and an absolute must: the Tea Three Ways (RMB138). Tea Three Ways (RMB138). Photo by Heather Millet.From first drink to last, the Tea Three Ways journey is as follows: Floral Phoenix Dancing Tea; Floral Dan Cong Gin Infused Spirit; and Floral Dan Cong Cocktail, featuring Mermaid Gin, magnolia, lotus leaf, lavender, pine needle, yuzu, lemon and tonic.The path from pure tea to tea spirit to tea cocktail is a stairway to understanding.While the floral Dan Cong profile could suggest more perfumed and then lean sweet or overly done, in fact the tea itself is slightly dry, youthful in the floral aspects and elegantIt meets well with the gin of the second glass, lifting the encounter into the cocktail.The finishing beverage of the trio showcases the soul of the entire operation. In a combustion of natural flavors, the class of this single glass of liquid is found through the fact that not one element can be chosen above the others, except settling with the tea in the aft.A truly memorable cocktail stops time, for just an instant. We question reality and – in this case – we question what we understand about tea.Tea Spirit Tasting Set (RMB98). Photo courtesy of Bar Choice.Seemingly in jest, the next category of the tea cocktail menu is the 'Rule Breakers' – Ring laughingly explains that, while they respect tea heritage, they also want to have fun.She recommends their jasmine tea bloody mary twist. As if nothing could be more upending than jasmine in the standard hair-of-the dog hangover cure, the New Orleans Bloody Mary (RMB128) turns toward a different face of Bar Choice. New Orleans Bloody Mary (RMB128). Photo courtesy of Bar Choice.Featuring jasmine green tea, Ketel One Vodka, pickled chili, New Orleans spices, parsley, tangerine oil, tomato, and bergamot, the ingredients could seem like a mockery, yet none of the bizarre flavors shout from the opaque, almost ominous black glass.Photo courtesy of Bar Choice.While all too often jasmine and jasmine tea flavors come as a syrup – and, frankly, can taste like cardboard air fresheners – the jasmine here lays foundation for festivity. There is no conflict between the ingredients, and there is no starring role, save for the New Orleans Spice... which is what?"It's like the spice you would use if you were making chicken wings!" Ring exclaims, before excitedly recommending another Rule Breaker...Thai Salad (RMB118): Four Seasons Green Tea, Los Site Misterios Dobe, Yei Mezcal, Sickle Senna Seed, Ginger, Yellow Bell Pepper, Mango. Photo courtesy of Bar Choice.The Thai Salad (RMB118) is one of her favorites, and is as playful as it is smooth, coming topped in a tiny wicker hat, custom made for its glass.Ring knows her menu thoroughly, describing in detail how the yellow bell pepper in this cocktail is burned to match the mezcal, the peel removed and then pressed. The yellow capsicum holds strongly in the aroma.When we ask about the senna seed, Ring squints, holding her thumb and forefinger close to say "It's the small seed you can put in pillows. It's good for sleep."And, though tea may not seem ideal for evening cocktails before rest, the Bar Choice team took over a year testing tea spirits for their ideal brewing and infusing to extricate flavor while maintaining a low caffeine content.Fresh and gentler than expected, by way of drinks like the sweet mango and pepper Thai Salad it is not hard to sleep after a voyage to Bar Choice. Bottled Tea Spirit Set (RMB588). Photo courtesy of Bar Choice.Beyond the staples lays a world of cocktails to come, and even the indulgence of an entire carafe of the infused tea alcohol arriving as a Bottled Tea Spirit Set (RMB588), served with soda water and your choice of flavor profile.Much like the many detours that Ring herself took to arrive at the carefully curated Bar Choice, there is something to serve any personality, at any time of day, and to endlessly call us back to the comfort of her sophisticated tea house bar. Every story has a cocktail to tell. Every road has a drink to accompany it. Every tea has a spirit to unlock and to be found at Bar Choice.Bar 6pm-1am Sun-Thu and until 2am Fri & SatBar Choice, 777 Huashan Lu，Jing'an District 静安区华山路777号
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