Yao Bar – A New Turn for Revolving Door

By Heather Millet

Speakeasy Revolving Door was a kind of cult favorite. It followed a classic story, like the speakeasies of old – a simple coffee shop belying a literal wall that turned on axis, opening a door to a hard wood bar top and finely crafted cocktails.

Though it was slightly out of the way for some, it had a steady patronage due to the former owners, who were well-loved for their support of mixologist vision, casual conversation, and a touch of whimsy (ballpark hotdogs, anyone?)

Sadly, we lost Revolving Door this past June, as it faded out of the hands of previous management. 

Photo by Maria Menand

It has now turned into something similar, and definitely creative: Yao Bar. Taking inspiration from the Chinese concept of Yin and Yang, Yao Bar aims to represent the many elements of Chinese balance.

Their method, however, is a bit unorthodox. 

The coffee shop and literal revolving door are now gone. They kept what was behind the wall for prior patrons and high-end cocktail lovers, but – curiously – the front is now for the neighborhood's university students, and offers a some-would-say sacrilegious free flow on DIY cocktails.

You read that right – for RMB188 the bar provides standard cocktail recipe recommendations, and drinkers are welcome to try their hand at mixology.

Photo by Maria Menand

We can only wonder how this will play out on busy nights, with a black-walled entrance full of uni kids and a solid wood back room meant for sipping from tall glasses.

The inquisitive are welcome to investigate. 

EZ keeping cocktails golden delicious. Photo by Maria Menand

The most visible new partner in this venture is Eason Yang, who worked for Revolving Door alongside EZ (previously Lynn – revolving doors, revolving names...)

What can be said for this new version is that EZ is the gem keeping cocktails golden delicious, with Eason himself calling him the true face of the bar.

After three rounds of cocktail testing, and over 40 beverage inventions, the list for this season has been whittled down to eight signature cocktails.

Ingredients are listed in English and Chinese, though the names of beverages – which represent the elements of Yin Yang – are only in Chinese.

Qian (RMB88): Fragrant Baijiu, Lemon Leaf Infused Rum, Fresh Kiwi, Lime, Honey. Photo by Maria Menand

The elements correspond to drinkability as well as the ingredients. For example, the Qian (RMB88), symbolizing 'sky or heaven,' is the top element, and so is represented with a light cocktail that had to include Chinese baijiu.

Baijiu cocktails are very popular these days, and avoiding them the past few years has been like dodging bullets, yet this one is worth the hit.

Normally, a baijiu cocktail is found with a masking aroma... and then still lands as heavy alcohol and the flavor of too many cheers with Uncles at a Chinese wedding.

This cocktail may be one of the best of its kind in the city, because rather than fighting the 'fragrant' baijiu, it is relaxed with lemon leaf and muddled fresh kiwi, as if to assuage the attitude of the feisty sorghum liquor.

Served in a tall, stemmed glass, the flavor is gentle – if you are ever able to say that of baijiu – but hits like a horse kick on the booze front, as the cocktail also contains rum.

Xun (RMB88): Crimson Pangolin Peach & Rose Gin, Yellow Chartreuse, Lemon Juice, Peach Bitters, Perilla Leaf. Photo by Maria Menand

An absolute starring cocktail, which we could drink every day, is the deceptively clever Xun (RMB88), representing 'wind.'

Crimson Pangolin Peach & Rose Gin is complimented by perilla leaf and elusive Yellow Chartreuse.

Eason and EZ say that this drink is meant to taste like a traditional Hunan spring snack of firm peach slices wrapped in perilla leaf, the latter being muddled before being added to the liquid, explaining why its tender flavor comes through so clearly. 

Though the ingredients list might typically lend to an overly sweet, princess cocktail meant to nullify the masses, this creation really is like the wind – bringing together many elements in a refreshing, bright and enigmatic mouthful. 

Gen (RMB98): Ginger and Lemongrass Infused Gin, Coconut Oil Washed Campari, Russo Vermouth, Orange Bitters. Photo by Maria Menand

The Gen (RMB98) is a longer drink that doesn't stray far from the Negroni it is profiled after. Representing 'peace and chill,' it is meant as a second or third beverage, to allow pause over conversation.

Zhen (RMB 98): Thyme-infused Mezcal, Agave Syrup, Triple Sec, Lime Juice, Mango. Photo by Maria Menand

For a final boom, the Zhen (RMB98), representing 'thunder,' is a joyful explosion of mezcal and mango, landing as quickly as lightning strikes, and leaving behind a quiet smoke.

It is easy to imbibe, and more reminiscent of younger days, as if taking a nod to the front-of-house, free flow atmosphere. 

Yao Bar's upstairs private room, available for poker. Photo by Maria Menand

It's hard to say what the contrast of ideas will bring to this establishment over time. However, the drinks are as consistent as ever under the watchful eyes of EZ, and the atmosphere is still welcoming. 

Yao Bar also continues to use the upstairs private room, which can be open for groups looking to play poker or have a longer, more secluded evening.

Yao Bar, 588 Hefei Lu, by Chongqing Nan Lu, Huangpu District 合肥路588号, 近重庆南路

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