Barules is Back! A Choose-Your-Own Cocktail Adventure

By Heather Millet

Mesmerizing cocktail bar Barules is an establishment that is far from new, and nearly everyone seems to know it.

It existed for six years on the corner of Fenyang and Fuxing Lu, before closing in 2020, and has since lain dormant in the heart of its visionaries – most especially in the creative minds of lead bartenders, Ian and Dante.

Though it was lost in the Shanghai ether for three (*ahem*) strange years, it has returned to us in 2024, and can now be found on Tongren Lu, in the shadow of the Shanghai Center in downtown Jing'an.

Image courtesy of Barules

At first passing, the exterior modestly whispers 'Speakeasy here…' with an unlabeled door spray-painted with the words 'Bartender is always right.'

Image courtesy of Barules

Pass through this, and a nearly wall-sized inner door swings open to uncover an arena of revelry.

Stepping into the reborn Barules is like stepping into a cocktail chapel: the very wood of this classically designed establishment seems to hum; the bar staff glow from warm backlighting.

Everywhere are relics of bar history, such as an antique silver shaker or a vintage register machine, while the water carafes on the second floor look like they were sourced along the Silk Road.

The desire to bring back memories of what is truly holy in this cocktail universe rings through.

Dante, Bartender of original and reborn Barules. Image by Heather Millet

With a fervor and style that is unique to our beautiful city, Ian and Dante have rematerialized, their quick hands dispensing in-house made syrups, aromatic mists and folded garnishes. 

It is a nod to what Barules considers the golden age of cocktails – the 80s and 90s, when cocktails took on a fresher and brighter flavor with ingredients like fruits and berries. 

Freestyle Cocktail (RMB108): Pandan, Coconut, Pineapple 

Though they offer a selection of signature cocktails, and some favorites from the original location, what makes Barules special is their celebration of 'freestyle cocktails.'

Though there are multiple bars in the city which offer a kind of DIY cocktail experience, what Barules has prepared is a list of 150 ingredients, sectioned by fruits, floral, herbs, tea, spices, rhizome, nuts, and savory.

With your pick of up to four flavors recommended, you also choose your alcohol, the strength, bubbliness and general flavor profile (sour, sweet, balanced, dry) – or even whether you would like something that is easy to drink more quickly or a slow sipper.

 

Think of it as a bespoke, choose-your-own adventure cocktail menu.

Freestyle Cocktail (RMB108): Rooibos Tea, Chocolate, Orange, Mezcal, Strong, Balance

The ingredients list is about versatility, so that mixing and matching can run a wide spectrum; the point here is not simply to order something 'special,' but something that will provide elevated comfort and pleasure, like the iconic spirits which came to exist at the turn of the last century. 

Easier said than done? Many people find it hard to know what to go for, so we went straight to the source – bar manager Vance Zhu – with the question: "How can someone best choose from this long list of ingredients?"

"It's like going to the supermarket," he answers with a casual wave of the hand. "If you like fish, you get fish; if you like beef, you get beef. If you want to make a beef soup, you choose a beef, choose a tomato." 

In other words, simply ask for what you like.

Freestyle Cocktail (RMB108): Rose, Sage, Palo Santo

When ordering, it's clear that the first ingredient you say is likely to be the highlight, and there is no delay for flavor. A wasabi cocktail is balanced with savory cheese, yet very clearly wasabi. Rose cocktails are elegant and perfumed. Coffee inevitably leads to an Espresso Martini riff.

And what about if someone picks different crazy things?

"That's good!" exclaims Vance, breaking into a crooked grin and chuckle. "It's not crazy! We already tried all the crazy."

Freestyle Cocktail (RMB118): Wasabi, Cheese, Nori, Lemongrass, Strong, Tequila, Long Drink

Remember the words spray-painted on the outer door? In choosing from the Good Book of Barules, it's important to remember the gospel is that the bartender is always right – meaning that they have reign over creation of the drinks.

Therefore, it's advisable to be clear if an ingredient is definitely something to avoid, be that a type of alcohol or a garish flavor like cucumber (not to down-vote cucumber, but it is domineering in a cocktail).

Freestyle Cocktail (RMB108): Sage, Almond, Not Sweet, Short, Surprise Plum Wine

When Vance is behind the bar, he aims for twists on classics, like a Gin Fizz or his own preferences such as Manhattan or Sazerac. So, if you want coffee, but not in Espresso Martini form, say so.

Some evenings the drinks come as a marvelous salvation from the ordinary; unrepeatable and transportive.

On other evenings, the risk of ordering two to four random ingredients, especially when the bar is busy, means accepting that the journey may be more important than the destination, and we can concede to the intrigue of mystery that lands in front of us. 

Freestyle Cocktail (RMB108): Corn, Bee Pollen, Barley Tea, Eucalyptus

It all begs an important question: what to do when a cocktail does go awry in this communion of trust between patron and bartender?

Vance calmly states that, while the bartenders will be creative, if something is truly incorrect, they want to know. This is their trade, and ensuring that everyone has a wonderful experience is key.

For example, when ordering a beverage with pepper flavors, raspberry and eucalyptus, Ian decides to keep the raspberry aside, and instead presents an incredible duo of one exquisite cocktail that feels like a winter breath of fresh air, alongside a flute of non-alcoholic raspberry-rose medley. 

Freestyle Cocktail (RMB118): Raspberry, Eucalyptus, Ginger, Peppercorn

As with the cocktails, the ambiance at Barules is balanced. Music is a mélange of classic pop, newer tunes and the occasional old classic.

The staff are cool and collected but warm, with friendly conversation. In fact, a curious thing becomes apparent sitting at Barules: most patrons are devoid of their phones. 

In our modern age, it is all too common to see people checking their phones regularly, or even engrossed in the screen.

Barules has created a mobile deadzone, in the best way possible – a place where customers come for conversation, cocktails, and a crusade of flavor.

Barules, 304-2, Tongren Lu, by Nanyang Lu, Jing'an District 铜仁路304-2号, 近南阳路

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[Unless otherwise credited, all images by Heather Millet]

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