Mona at Fotografiska – Integrating Art Through Food

By Sophie Steiner

The Place 

Mona opened in early July on the ground floor of Fotografiska Shanghai – a part of the global Fotografiska brand, one of the largest contemporary immersive photography museums in the world, with over 200 exhibitions attracting millions of visitors since its inception in Stockholm in 2010. 

Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Designed by AIM Architecture – an internationally acclaimed studio based in Shanghai with a focus on Gen Z-centric décor – the space portrays a 'theater of life,' intended to appeal specifically to social media users by integrating art through both food and rotating exhibitions.

Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

The Mediterranean-meets-Asian fusion menu is crafted by chef Mandy Tang, who hails from China's spice region - Chongqing and Sichuan.

Boasting over a decade of culinary experience from Chengdu to Macau to Shanghai, Chef Tang, along with General Manager of Fotografiska Shanghai Walter Zahner, have together built a lunch and dinner menu aligning with Fotografiska's global ethos.

Both the restaurant and the art museum share the same vision of 'inspiring new perspectives' through bridging cultures and encouraging guests to experience the unexpected. 

The Food 

From small to large sharing plates, the moreish, mishmashed menu highlights meats and seafood from the open applewood-fired grill, and homemade pizzas from a custom-built wood-fire oven.

In the name of sustainability, the menu also features a number of plant-based meat options, enticing carnivores and vegetarians alike. 

Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Take the Beyond Bolognaise (RMB98), for instance – a riff on Chongqing style dan dan mian (担担面), with Chinese noodles swapped for thicker spaghetti Italian pasta, swaddled in a rich peanut, sesame and homemade chili oil sauce.

A crumbly topping consisting of minced vegan-friendly Beyond Meat sautéed with customary dan dan mian accoutrement – like pickled Yibin yacai (wild vegetables from Yibin, Sichuan), garlic and ginger – has us questioning if meat is ever really necessary, as we lick a dribble of aromatic chili oil from our glossy, gratified lips.

Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Another bestseller – and for good reason – the Beef Tartar (RMB128) isn't your everyday tartare; instead, it receives a Japanese twist via seaweed dashi marmalade, wasabi oil, and crispy tempura-fried shiso leaves that act as the ideal scooping vessel.

The M5 Australian Rangers Valley beef is also sheathed by a shaving of macadamia nuts, lending a nutty creaminess that is customarily achieved through parmesan.

Finally, briny beads of caviar bring forth a hit of salinity while pickled shallots add a pop of brightness. 

Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Plump pleats of Cured Scallops (RMB88) arrive swimming in an herbaceous chive oil and fresh green Sichuan peppercorn sauce, adorned with a crunchy fennel slaw, julienned radish, and sour pearls of lemon vinegar that expertly juxtapose the seafood's innate sweetness.

The curious addition of dehydrated and toasted Chinese red dates (hongzao 红枣) provide a requisite textural contrast. 

Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Available on both the lunch and dinner menu, the Char Siu Pork Ribs (RMB118) are inspired by Chef Tang's time working in Macau, with Iberico pork ribs (instead of the commonplace pork shoulder) slathered in a Macau-style sticky char siu glaze, further augmented by Sichuan fermented bean sauce (dou ban jiang 豆瓣酱).

Flanked by braised purple cabbage 'sauerkraut,' the ingredients are brought together by a Chinese mustard sauce, enhanced by a lingering sweetness owed to the addition of local honey. 

Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Charcoal Roasted Eggplant (RMB78) is tossed with other open-flame fired veggies, like bell peppers, tomatoes, onions, and er jing tiao (二荆条) – a long, skinny green chili that packs a serious spice punch – plus a myriad of local Chongqing seasonings, and sliced Anhui preserved century egg. 

Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

As for the main event, there are grilled proteins of all manner – Beef Ribeye (RMB488), Beef Oyster Blade (RMB288), Charred Yellow Croaker (RMB178), Boston Lobster (RMB258), Grilled Tiger Prawns (RB128), and Charred Dry-Aged Salmon (RMB218), pictured above.

All are served with diners' choice of sauce – South American-style chimichurri, yuzu vinaigrette, or mixed Sichuan BBQ spice. 

Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Dessert is no afterthought, presented with even more artistry, perhaps, than the preceding savory courses. 

Case in point, the Fire and Ice (RMB88) is just that – a chocolate lava cake lit aflame tableside causing the outer chocolate dome to melt, revealing homemade whiskey-infused ice cream below.

Siam Fragrance (RMB68) – Mixed berry sorbet, ginger foam, crispy black rice, berry compote. Image by Sophie Steiner/That's 

Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Showcasing all Chinese ingredients, the Rice & Bean Muse (RMB78) is a pastel tower of milky Dongbei rice pudding stacked with a scoop of soybean ice cream and dehydrated soy milk skin crisps, dusted with pistachio and a lashing of yuzu.  

Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Cocktails are arranged from booze-heavy libations – like the Peanut Butter Old Fashioned (RMB88) with peanut butter-infused bourbon, Okinawa black sugar, and chocolate bitters...

Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

... to lighter drams, like the Suzhou River Greeting (RMB78) – a refreshing blend of Bombay gin, celery, cucumber, jasmine syrup and lemon.

In addition, there's an assortment of low ABV and no ABV bevvies, plus coffee drinks.

Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

Mona also pours nearly 100 natural wines from Italy to Spain, France to Romania and beyond, displayed in the walk-in wine cellar. 

The Vibe

The establishment's flow leads visitors first to the museum's entrance, past a modern art shop filled with one-of-a-kind crafts and selected books, as well as a café and gelateria, followed by a corridor to the restaurant itself. 

Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

The brightly lit space is outfitted in both communal and individual tables, with a smattering of wooden chair, recliner, and couch seating.

Artistic prints and pieces of artwork decorate everything from the walls to the pillow covers to even the backs of the menus, augmented by plants that guide the eye to the European style street terrace. 

Image by Sophie Steiner/That's

As one would expect, a visit to Mona is truly a 'dining in a modern art museum' experience. And not just any museum – one that has received accolades from Stockholm and Tallinn to New York and Berlin... and now Shanghai. 

Price: RMB225-350
Who's Going: Photography lovers, Suzhou Creek roamers, modern art foodies
Good For: Working afternoons, casual catchups, art-meets-food outings

Mona, Fotografiska Shanghai, 127 Guangfu Lu, by Wuzhen Lu, 光复路127号, 近乌镇路.

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[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]

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