Swirl – Winetails Bistro by SG Group's Shingo Gokan
The Place
The SG Group (Sober Company, Speak Low, The Odd Couple), backed by Japanese bar industry tycoon Shingo Gokan, just opened Tokyo-transplant Swirl on Fuxing Lu.This wine-meets-cocktail bar offers a laid-back alternative to the high-energy, late-night vibes of sister venue Speaklow – of which Swirl shares a wall – coupled with Asian-fusion sharing plates for relaxed sipping and snacking from afternoon into evening… followed by a cheeky Speaklow nightcap. Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sImage by Sophie Steiner/That'sImage by Sophie Steiner/That'sAlso known as Swrl., this wine bistro concept first opened in Tokyo's Shibuya neighborhood in October 2021, and then closed in July 2023.That same concept has now been revamped and relocated to our own backyard, swinging open its doors this past April. Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sImage by Sophie Steiner/That'sRather than shaken or stirred, here all wine-based cocktails – or 'winetails,' as this nascent drinks category is branded – are swirled, hence the name, with ice only added immediately before serving so as not to dilute the at once crafted and balanced sip.The Drinks & Food
Curated by Shingo Gokan himself, the wine cocktails list is divided between light, medium, and full body – based on the structure of each drink's base wine.Augmented by spirits and sous vide and infused ingredients, most wine cocktails fall in the 12-20% ABV range – on the lower end of the spectrum – so as not to overpower the wine's natural flavors and aromas. Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sImage by Sophie Steiner/That'sWhile still very much a cocktail, the difference is that most of the work goes on behind the scenes instead of in front of guests' eyes, so that pre-batched bases can be swirled with wine à la minute, and libations come together in a matter of seconds.This translates to equally complex tipples with not only less wait time between drinks, but also more guest interactions and exemplary service.Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sWinetail tastes are inspired by global destinations, utilizing a myriad of ingredients to exemplify the flavors of each city.Think a blend of afternoon tea and champagne as the elegant London (RMB125), a beer reduction and orange wine as the funky Copenhagen (RMB95), or aromatic bergamot and lemon blended with slightly effervescent and pleasantly grassy Portuguese Vinho Verde as the Sicily (RMB90). Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sFrom lightest to heaviest, we suggest first traversing this worldly cocktail expedition with a stop in Barcelona (RMB95).Dill-infused gin is swirled with elderflower liqueur and clarified tomato water. Finished with tart rosé, the glass culminates in a blush-worthy bevvie.Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sThe city's eponymous cocktail, the Shanghai (RMB95), is overtly aromatic on the nose, yet demurely sweet on the palate – a marriage of juicy lychee, dragonfruit and red apple matched with jasmine flower tea-infused rum and treacly Moscato wine. Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sConcurrently punchy and boasting a creamier mouthfeel, the Mexico City (RMB125) sees jalapeño sous vide tequila rounded by the innate vanilla undertones of tonka bean.A clarified red and yellow bell pepper juice lends vegetal sweetness, while Vin Juane – a six-year aged French wine with nutty, yeasty notes akin to fino sherry or Chinese yellow wine (huangjiu 黄酒) – offers layered intensity and a golden hue. 
Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sEqually savory, the Brooklyn (RM95) features gin and bourbon sous vide with peanut butter, further amplified by cinnamon butter sous vide SG Shochu.A clarified apple and celery juice mixed with Chardonnay tempers the salinity with a tart freshness. 
Melbourne (RMB95) – Geisha coffee infused vodka, sweet vermouth, milk clarification, Chardonnay. Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sImage by Sophie Steiner/That'sAside from wine cocktails, wines and bubbles by the glass range from RMB65-105. Homemade kombucha, coffee beverages and mocktails are also on the drinks roster.Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sThe contemporary eats menu is designed by renowned Japanese chef Fumio Yonezawa, who cut his teeth working as Jean Georges' sous chef in New York, before opening Jean Georges Tokyo as chef de cuisine. He now owns No Code in Tokyo, and builds out the food menu for most SG Group venues, as well as the recently opened YONE on the 27th floor of The Shanghai EDITION. Image by Sophie Steiner/That's
Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sA tight lineup of 10 shareable snacks ranges from Dashi Olives (RMB35) – plump with a lingering hint of bonito – to Truffle Potato Salad (RMB55) topped with a chipotle mayo-sauced soft-boiled egg. Cheese Platter (RMB75) – Comté, truffle cheddar, biscuits, dried fruits, nuts. Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sImage by Sophie Steiner/That'sThe newest menu addition, Hakata Cold Pasta (RMB75), showcases cream-swaddled capellini adorned with rainbow-like stripes of mentaiko and sea urchin, plus pickles, seaweed, and a jammy ramen egg. Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sAn ode to Japanease izakaya fare, the Jerk Chicken Tsukune (RMB65) is a skewered chicken meatball slathered in a sticky black pepper teriyaki glaze, flanked by a fiery mango dipping sauce.Pleasantly charred and crisp on the outside, the meatball is succulent and juicy inside, beckoning diners in for another round. The Vibe
Sitting snuggly at the cross-section between wine bar and dram den, the easy-going atmosphere is further enhanced by chill music – instrumental slow jazz that fits the pace of the team. Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sImage by Sophie Steiner/That'sThe focal point downstairs is a warmly lit elm wood bar, lined with elegant glassware and cocktail swirlers, around which seating for 25 orbits.Moving upstairs, the eye is drawn to a 360° S-shaped (or 'swirling') bar, encircled by seating for another 25. Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sImage by Sophie Steiner/That'sThe crux of the venue's ethos is its approachability and honesty of concept; a place where guests can enjoy an unpretentious pre- or post-dinner libation that's guaranteed to deliver on what we all want out of a cocktail: a delicious drink. Image by Sophie Steiner/That'sLooks like it's time to 'sip and guzzle' – the meaning behind the SG in SG Group – our way through yet another Shingo Gokan bar opening. For celebration sake, of course.Price: RMB90-125 per drink
Who's Going: SG Group fans, wine lovers, curious cocktail sippers
Good For: Pre- and post-dinner relaxed drinks, casual catchups, simultaneous wine and cocktail explorationSwirl, 577 Fuxing Zhong Lu, by Ruijin Er Lu 复兴中路577号, 近瑞金二路
[Cover image by Sophie Steiner/That's]▼For more Shanghai Bar Reviews, click 'Read more' (阅读原文) below.
No comments:
Post a Comment